Thekkady

Getting to Thekkady is as sublime as the destination itself. A scenic journey past mistyped mountains, spice plantations and open grasslands lined with spectacular waterfalls and delightful trekking trails forms the access to your hideaway here. Perched amidst dense greenery in the outskirts of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. Throwing up pleasant surprises like wild boars scuttling across the road in front, as you near the sanctuary. Which, sprawling across 7777 sq. kms, is one of the largest in India.

On arrival, you can settle into the summer palace of the former Maharaja of Travancore now renovated into the Lake Palace Hotel - which has changed little since the days of royal ownership. Satisfying the most dedicated romantic. Set alluringly on a small island within the picturesque Periyar Lake, the hotel has six imperial rooms with black wooden furniture and spacious verandahs forming an ideal base for game-viewing.

Or you can choose from the 30 rooms offered at Aranya Nivas, the gracious old stone structure serving as the main sanctuary lodge at the head of the lake.

The more adventurous can even opt for accommodation designed along the lines of a jungle lodge with cottages built on eleve-foot stilts like the Indian 'machans,' offering fascinating tree-top views of the beautiful surroundings.

A boat safari on the Periyar Lake - a nineteenth century reservioir around which the sanctuary is based - extends a life-time's chance to sport exotic wildlife in its natural habitat. Like the eccentric bathing habits of the wild elephants that come down to the lake. Squealing, swimming and spraying each other with mud. Unmindful of eyes - both yours and your camera's - training on them. and herds of bisons ambling across one thick range of bush to another. Timing your trip in the evening raises the possibility of glimpsing the mouse deer, flying squirrels, wild boars and otters that populate these hills.

Periyar is one of the few Indian reserves which allows trekking. However, be guarded against leeches. Wearing insect repellant on socks over trousers is one stock measure against them.

Trekking with a local guide familiarizes you to the rare birds, trees and flowers that are come across here. And also sets up your close encounter with guar, barking deer, porcupines, langurs and macaques. Only the most fortunate do eventually sight a rare predator - the tiger, the panther or perhaps a pack of wild dogs. Though aquatic birds are relatively few here, the Indian darter and black-necked stork are common. However, the forest is home to an amazing variety of terrestrial birds such as the great Indian hornbill, the Brahmin kite, the little cormorant, the pied kingfisher and the golden oriole.

You can even set upon a walk through the bending lanes, which wind through the plantations filled with the heady fragrance of fresh spice. Black peper, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon. And an engaging visit to a tribal village deep inside the forest provides your close-quarter observance of the curious ways of neolithic life.